South Island to North Island: Between Assignments, 27 Feb to 14 March 2010

Our Corolla loaded to the brim, we took off mid-day Friday from sunny Alex for a reunion in Waimate with the staff at Oak House Medical Clinic before closing. Some of the staff had moved on and the clinic had been under new management for the last 2 years, but we had good visit with the core group. Then up the hill behind town to Te Kiteroa and a delightful evening with Ann Dennison at her and her husband Gary’s vineyard B&B. This is Waimate’s Mansion overlooking the town with views out to the sea. Te Kiteroa had another life in the mid 20th century as a Respite House for stressed out farmer’s wives. If only Steve’s hometown would have shown such foresight, he considered how he might have had a more harmonious life growing up on the farm. Ann cooked dinner and opened the latest vintage of Point Bush Pinot Noir, which matched the best from Central Otago. We got the inside tract on all the news from Waimate.

Te Kiteroa

About Waimate Revisited

The next morning we checked out all that was old and new in Waimate – didn’t take too long. Sandi found some hand knitted premature baby booties at the Sat Market. We had lunch at the new Malaysian Café, a tour of the flowers at Nottingham Park and greeted a very content pig along the way. Afternoon Barbie with Steve and Hazel Fish’s extended family in their work in progress country home. Her parents were on an extended visit from England. Hazel gave us a blog tutorial. The kids demonstrated the results of Hazel’s home schooling in the King’s English. Steve formulated alternative locations for the new garage while he grilled and awaited the next “ring up” on call. All and all, a pleasant bit of Old England in Kiwiland.

Waimate Revisited

About Geraldine

We made it to our backpackers in Geraldine that night and Sandi revisited the local Merino weavers and spinners at the Sunday Market, armed with her newly acquired skills in the art of felting.

Geraldine

About North from Geraldine

Heading north from Geraldine we found a short hike among the Black (bark) Beech in the Mt Hutt Forest. We passed swimmers on the Rakia River and continued on to Hanmer Springs. This is a low-key hot spring resort that is a popular weekend escape from Christchurch. It was low key, so much so that we didn’t take any pictures.

North from Geraldine

About Nelson - Prep for Abel Tasman Track

Next stop Nelson for our final prep for the Abel Tasman Track, an hour away from arguably the most beautiful of NZ’s Great Walks. More importantly, the least strenuous with a max elevation of 300 feet, but don’t ask Sandi how many times she climbed that 300 feet. We shopped for all those last minute camping essentials to add maximum comfort to our wilderness experience and wow our fellow trampers with the latest essential feather-light trail gadget. Then we settled in for a restful night at Paridiso Backpackers. Well not so restful, as it turned out to be the Club Med of youth hostels. Pool, bar in a bus, hot tub, free Top Ramen on arrival and all the watered down soup of the day you can eat. 180 beds in all varieties and combinations were packed into one very lively facility. One girl sat on Sandi’s head climbing down from a loft bed above the lobby. It was a 20-something paradise and they celebrated all night long. We hit the trail in Marahau at dawn, well how about 2 PM.

Nelson - Prep for Abel Tasman Track

About Anchorage Bay Hut

We did make it to Anchorage Hut by dusk with great beach views along the way and only a few sand fly bites to prove we took the trail, not the water taxi to get there.

On to Anchorage Bay Hut

About Crossing Torrent Bay

Some anxious moments the next morning when we thought we had missed the low tide window to cross Torrent Bay. Missing it would result in a 6-hour delay, wading through a km of tidal pool or a steep long detour. It was at this point in the trip that the following exchange was heard, “Well honey, we could go this way, or we could go that way.” “Stop giving me ultimatums!!” Photos here show a beached yacht on the bay without water, a picnic breakfast after we made it across and the bay that filled up after us.

Torrent Bay

About Suspension Bridge

We crossed a wobbly 30-meter suspensions bridge the next day, looking down on the Falls River where Tyler and Steve Kayaked in ’08.

Suspension Bridge

About Bark Bay

We went on to our second Hut at Bark Bay, where we started to see some familiar faces. Filtered water was available at the huts, but trampers bring their own food, stove and cooking fuel. We slept on a long row of bunks on a foam pad. Steve was comfortable in his “Big Agnes” sleeping bag, but it rained that night and Sandi was a little chilly in her homemade sleeping bag liner.

To Bark Bay Hut and Beyond

About an Easy Tidal Crossing

We climbed some hills with views of golden beaches the next morning. Our REI hiking polls were much appreciated. Concern about the next tidal crossing turn our out to be unfounded. It was a dozen rock stepping-stones across a stream.

About Awaroa Bay Hut

We were getting our tramping legs by the third day and made camp at Awaroa Bay by mid afternoon. We had time for a swim and an invigorating outdoor shower. There was just enough lawn for a lively game of international Botche Ball. Pictured are a Kiwi woman who with her husband also hiked the whole track and the “French Connection”. Sunshine, the bay at our doorstep, good company from all over the world - this was our favorite hut.

Awaroa Bay Hut

About Sandi's Last Day Tramping

The third day started with another low tide crossing. Every time we rounded a corner, there was another beautiful beach. Sandi decided to end her tramp at midday and take a water taxi back from Totaranui a day early.

Sandi's Last Day Tramping

About the Last Day of Tramping

Steve decided to make it a longer, but less strenuous day with a lighter pack. He skipped a hill that went across the peninsula and followed the coast to the NE tip at Separation Point. From there he followed a gentle rise along the ridge along the north coast and dropped down to an isolated bay. This was the site of an old homestead, now transformed into Whariwharangi Hut. On arrival the track survivors inquired about Sandi’s health and were assured that she was well and probably sitting in a hot tub in the beach town of Kaiteriteri as we spoke. Steve retuned to Totaranui by a shorter, but steeper route the next day, caught the noon water taxi and met Sandi for lunch in at the trailhead. More exploring, thankfully by car, and we headed back to Club Med.

Last Day of Tramping